The Chinese Monoply on Crap

The Chinese Monopoly on Crap

The following may be mildly offensive to some readers, so I’ll apologize in advance, but explain that these are economically, not racially motivated statements. They are also subject to my understanding of the situation, which, given my language ability, could be way off the mark. Also, as it says in the disclaimer, the opinions expressed herein are those of the author and in no way reflect or represent the views of the Peace Corps, or the United States government.


So the Chinese have a monopoly on crap in Cape Verde. I am convinced that the Chinese are bent on World Domination, and they are starting with Cape Verde, West Africa. Let me explain.

In its infancy, the Cape Verdian government realized that people in the scattered and remote villages of the islands were literally starved for basic goods and sundries; if they couldn’t make it, they couldn’t get it. Things that all of us take for granted. Pots, bowls, pencils and pens, forks, pitchers, clothes, bed sheets, shoes, mops brooms and buckets, toys, metal shelves and charming white plastic furniture. Later on, as the country began to develop and (relatively) reliable electricity made its way to the interior of most of the islands, people began to want for small appliances like fans, grills, radios, televisions etc. Essentially the problem was that there was nothing to buy and nowhere to buy it in the country.

Desperate for a solution, the Cape Verdian government turned to the Chinese, and a deal was struck. Out of this bargain, the Chinese got an unfettered, unregulated, untaxed market for their goods, and Cape Verde got a lot of Chinese crap. Every city, every town, and every village has At Least one Chinese “loja” (store) where they sell…well, pretty much everything you can imagine. The stores are ALL owned and operated by Chinese merchants. They pay no import duties to get the crap here, and (subject to my understanding of the situation) neither collect nor pay taxes to the Cape Verdian government. (It is also my understanding that a Cape Verdian wishing to own and operate a store WOULD have to pay taxes.) These stores are all staffed by two or three Chinese citizens in a sort of indentured servitude system. It is my understanding that family members draw straws for who has to go live in Cape Verde, and the losers move to Cape Verde and operate the stores for four or five years, and then move back and make someone else draw straws. These merchants completely separate and segregate themselves from Cape Verdians and Cape Verdian culture, almost without exception. Typically, all the Chinese in a particular “zona” (area) will live in the same building, if not the same apartment. They typically keep to themselves and walk in groups, speak little or no Portuguese or Kriolu, and are only seen during business hours. And I know its bad to make generalizations, but I’ll make one here…Their contempt for Cape Verdians (and tourists and white people for that matter) is written all over their faces. It seems that they resent having to be here, and every person that walks into their store is a reminder of their “sentence.” It is not uncommon for them to yell at customers.

Another weird thing is that Every Single store carries EXACTLY the same goods as the one right across the street. I asked about it and was told (I think) that the Chinese government, after choosing the worst quality products possible, ships everything imaginable to a huge warehouse in the capitol city of Praia. As shelf space becomes available in the lojas all across Cape Verde, the loja owners all call the warehouse and request goods that be sent. Thus, all the stores are selling the exact same white metal shelf for 1700$00 CVE, the exact same pink plastic fan, etc. And I’m talking stuff that wouldn’t make it to the Dollar Store in the States. (Examples: A “ventuinha” (fan) I bought for 3200$00 CVE literally exploded and caught fire after a month of use; a 1500$00 CVE frying pan had a whole burned right through it in less than two weeks; a white metal “estante” (shelf) arrived missing one leg and most of the screws necessary to assemble it.) There is, as you might imagine, no such thing as a Returns Department. This is definitely a No Exchanges, No Refunds, You Break It You Buy It style market. There is however, no alternative. The Chinese lojas are the ONLY place you can get Things in most areas of Cape Verde.

And this is to say nothing of the blatant knock-offery going on around here. You can get clothes adorned with the labels of Nike, Jordache, Levi’s, Addidas, Puma, Timberland and Izod (most of which are highly flammable as it turns out). Everything unravels or falls apart. There are TVs, DVD players and stereos ostensibly made by Sony, Panasonic and Pioneer and all should come with a DANGER: EXPLOSIVE warning on them.

Of course, the Cape Verdians do get something out of it. Ships bringing Chinese goods…ships that weren’t coming here before this deal with the Chinese…are carrying other products as well (Toyota trucks and vans for example) and ship traffic means commerce, means money, means jobs, for Cape Verde. They have ample access to goods, whatever the quality, as there are stores in EVERY village that I’ve seen. Cape Verdian truckers and drivers are also the ones who transport the goods from place to place. Lojas typically hire a few Cape Verdian teenagers to assist customers and tell the prices.

Without a doubt, the Chinese are serving a need and providing a valuable service to Cape Verde, and I’d be eating off the kitchen floor if it weren’t for them. I think all this bitching is mostly just because my $35 fan exploded in my room the other night and gave me a heart attack. But it’s something more too.